Passage to Heaven
- Aroona B Bhat

It was actually a dream come true in the 1st week of August 2009, when we finally sat down at my dining table in Bombay as we planned the road route from Chandigarh to Ladakh. The desi Yankees were going to visit La-dags - “The land of Mountain Passes” after all.

After spending a wonderful day, getting pampered by our dearest aunt Daman in Chandigarh, we hit NH 21, for Manali at 7.30AM on the morning of 25th of August 09. The first part of the journey seemed uneventful and we kept feeding our eyes, on the many canals & greenery that we are starved off in Bombay, not to miss the rather colourful transport lorries with lines of patriotism, lost love, promising future with a new found love, wit & humor running along the rear bumper, of the decorative masterpieces.

Along came Ropar, (pronounced RO PADH) about 40 Kms into our journey, where one gets to see some natural formations on rocks. Ropar is the only known excavation site which can claim the status of a small town or city. The finds in recent excavations consists of earthen wares, statues, coins, etc. That proves that the city dates back to Harappa - Mohanjodharo civilization which crossed Satluj river. While we kept “wowing”, little did we realise that what was going to take our breath away, was actually a few hundred Kms afar!!!!

Located about 95 Kms from Chandigarh, the Anandpur Sahib Gurudwara was a must stop for us, despite the small detour we had to make. Historically speaking, there is no other Gurudrwara in this country that can call itself second to the Golden temple, other than the Anandpur Sahib. The Gurdwara was founded in the year 1665 by the ninth Sikh Guru, Guru Tegh Bahadur on the land that was offered to him by Dowager Rani Champa of Bilaspur & has historical moments attached to it in the chronology of Sikhism. We had a lovely Darshan here & I guess we so needed it, before we got lost in the company of “heaven” as we entered into God's Own Himachal Pradesh.

The climb towards the abode of the Gods begins, & while Mother Nature had us hanging out of the car windows with our camera's, we whizzed past the Govind Sagar Lake, which is the reservoir of one of India's oldest Hydro Electric projects - the Bhakra Nangal, (which my grandfather Sardar Basant Singhji, built, since he was Chief Engineer, Punjab state PWD), Barmana which is a known town - ever since the first power plant of the region based on the “waste heat recovery” was declared by Government of India, & Sundernagar home to Asia's largest Hydel Power Project (the Beas-Sutlej Hydro Electric Project). BTW, Barmana is also famous for its Mahamaya temple which is located on a hill.

We finally reached Mandi officially declared as “ the land of unexplored tourist destinations” & a district devoted in its love and dedication to Lord Madhav Rao, a form of Hindu God - Vishnu.

Mandi, also revealed to us the beauty of the mighty River Beas. As mighty as Sage Vyasa, who is the presiding patron of the river & Mightier than Alexander the Great, who's eastern most border was lined by River Beas. Our drive to Manali, in simple words was Follow the Beas.

Although we were told to expect some decent eateries at Mandi, we chose to go the “lorry driver” way & eat at a small dhaba along the highway. With dollops of Desi Ghee plonked on our Makki Ki Roti's, we devoured this meal & polished off the Dal, like that was the last meal of our lives. Our voracious appetite was satisfied at a mere sum of Rs.300/- for 5 people!!!! We couldn't have hoped for more fresh food, straight out of the Indian oven.

The Grand Himalayan Mountains, appeared, as if to protect us, as we continued our journey towards Manali & about 19kms away from Mandi, is Pandoh, again famous for its Power Project. Pandoh was very renowned for its Snow Trout, which today is considered to be unpalatable, due to severe stress in the Pandoh Reservoir.

The climb makes it seem, you are closing in on the skies, as you drive past Aut (a great destination for flower exports) & Bhunter (where the airport is actually located, credit however reads as Kullu Manali airport). This place marks your official entry into the Kullu Valley & is the very seat of the Sangam between Rivers Parvati & Beas. One cannot help, but hold your breathe as you just stop, and take stock of your surroundings. While on one side you see little streams, happily singing along as they travel, on the other, you are smothered by natural beauty tall trees, gay springs, chirpy birds - simply incomparable exquisiteness.

The 45 km journey to Manali from Kullu, was frequently tempered with ooh's & aah's at the extraordinary beauty of the journey which was breathtaking. Our well-informed driver insisted that we drive through the old route to Manali, which was truly more picturesque. It seemed sheer magic that nature kept unfolding herself for our eyes only as we romanced with her like never before. For us, the big city - seeing, breathing, walking machines, this was an experience we would never forget. Quite orgasmic in fact!!! We drove past apple orchards (even stopped & stole a few apples), quaint villages, simple yet smiling people, beautiful homes made of wood & slate stone roof, charming temples that holds the village together, tall & pristine Pine trees, climbing roads, gurgling water & beauty that simply enamours you.

With the sun all set to take a dip in the far horizon & an overcast sky threatening to explode on top of us, we entered “ The abode of Manu” the divine law-giver, & supposedly the father of all mankind. MANALI.

The 2 nights & 1 day that we stayed in Manali, was entirely spent on exploring the usual, but done our way. “Perched” in Sita Cottages, on the way to the famous Vashist temple, we surveyed the captivating splendour we were surrounded by. With the Mountain Ranges in front of us & the River Beas flowing at our feet, we were lulled into falling asleep.

The sunrise on the Pir Panjal Range is one of The most spectacular sights. Lost in the Golden Glow of the morning sun, we drove out of Manali, towards Sarchu.

One of the first villages you drive past, is Palchan, a pretty little village lined with shops selling fake fur, overalls, snow boots & skiing equipment. On looking beyond Palchan, you can see the Solang Valley, expanding herself to grab all the beauty she can, into a warm embrace.

Its lush green mountains that you are looking at, as you navigate & begin to climb your way through Kothi & Gulaba towards Marhi which is just about 21 Kms from Manali. Marhi is a lovely spot, green beyond description & full of pretty little wild flowers. A great place to stop by and have a cheap breakfast as the snow topped Pir Panjal Ranges, surveys your movements. I must warn you about the loo's though. You would be better off, using nature's vast resources.

Post Marhi, get ready to hit the 80 Km stretch to Keylong via Rohtang Pass, which is the beginning of acclimatisation problems if you have not taken ample care.

Situated about 50 Kms away from Manali, (& 16 Kms from Marhi) is the first of the 4 major passes that lead to Ladakh Rohtang Pass. This connects the valleys of Kullu/ Lahaul & Spiti of Himachal Pradesh and is 3978 meters above Sea Level & is considered to be the highest jeep-able road in the world. Rohtang demarcates the Hindu part & the Buddhist part of Himachal. The joke is, Rohtang - in Tibeatian means PILE OF CORPSES. I guess had we known of this, before we stopped, got out of our vehicle & posed with all our teeth falling off our mouths, we would've happily driven past it instead.

One of the wings of the Indian Army BRO Border Road Organisation, is very busy during the few months that this pass is open, with bettering the roads & attempting to make it a bit broader than what they are. So traffic jams along this stretch is a possibility. We were stuck in one such, but made good use of the time, by helping the “mazdoors” with shoving the earth with spades!!!!

Bidding farewell to the “South Indian” mazdoors, & seeking blessings of the Gyephang Peaks, (which is named after the patron deities of the Lahaul region, who they consider are their protector Gods), we drove on, this time downwards, through a series of hairpin bends, that could get you nauseous, & finally reach Gramphu, a green junction, where you take a deviation in case you want to drive to the valley of Spiti or the Kunzam Pass.

The first effects of bare mountains & nothing else, hits you, as the road journeys towards Khoksar, which has one of the most simple, yet elegant water falls by the side of the road, which rather expectantly surges forward towards the village. Khoksar is also supposed to be one of the coldest regions in the Lahaul valley.

The villages of Sissu & a few others lead the way to Gondhla, famous for its castle built by the Thakur's of Gondla, & the annual fair which is supposed to be simply beautiful (for the lack of other adjectives) which is held on the banks of River Chandra. If one ever does stop by, a quick peek at the “sword of wisdom,” belonging to the Thakur's, is a must.

Tandi arrives just 10 kms away from Gondla, & this place is known for 2 reasons. One - is that you have to fill up your tank, at a speed called NOW, since this is the last available petrol station, the next one being 365 Kms away & the second reason is that at Tandi, the rivers Chandra & Bhaga, meet to form River Chandrabhaga (which later becomes River Chenab as it flows into Pakistan)

A distinct change in terrain is visible. The mountains, more bare & stark, yet seem to be strong & brave, as it leads you to Keylong, the capital of the districts of Lahaul & Spiti. A traveller is said to have described Keylong as “a rough cut emerald in a bronze & silver setting” There are some really beautiful Buddhist Gompa's here which are a must visit, that just add to the charm, beauty & delight of Keylong. The local deity worshipped here is Kelang Wazir, a Tibetan God.? Among other things, Keylong is home to Tibetan Centre for Performing Arts.

For people with problems with High Altitude, it is also advisable to break journey at Keylong, & spend the night here before proceeding to Sarchu.

As you proceed from Keylong, the River Bhaga keeps up a stiff competition, with the twisting, turning, winding roads, with visibly fertile & verdant landscape & stays that way through Gemur all the way to Jispa which is 21 Kms away from keylong. I was quite taken aback by the statistics of this little village. Jispa has 332 residents, of which 235 are male & the rest 97 female. Four belong to schedule caste & the rest schedule tribes. The village does boast of a helipad & a small folk museum. Jispa too is a good location for a night halt to break the monotony of the journey.

Once you cross the Bassi Nallah, you have entered Darcha. It is the northernmost permanent settlement in Himachal Pradesh along the Manali-Leh Highway. The Rough Guide to India describes it as "a lonely cluster of dry-stone huts and dingy tent camps" Once you leave Darcha, its nothing but you, yourself, the inhabitants of your car & your car itself. If you are lucky, you will drive past another tourist vehicle. One gets so occupied staring at the Zanskar mountains, that at about 10 kms away from Darcha, one nearly misses the Stunningly beautiful Deepak Taal. From the "all I can see are mountains", you miss a breathe when she arrives out of nowhere on your left. The turn from here leads to Patseo, known for the fairs by the Changpa nomads.

If you've chosen to brave altitude sickness, then the road up to ZingZingbar Pass will seem, as Zing Zing a feeling, on your nerves, as the name suggests. I managed to take in the lone Army Post here & barely got my hand out into a “wave” at the jawans there.

This pass is the base of the Great Himalayan Range & once you cross it, the road turns into a near nightmare with boulders everywhere, many streams, & before you know it, the climb to BaralachLa pass begins. The agony filled journey (for me, since I had a pounding head) with me peeping at the snow capped Himalayas, turned magical the minute I spotted Suraj Taal, - a small mountain tarn, formed by the action of glaciers. The river Bhaga, originates from the Suraj Taal.

BaralachLa Pass soon appeared at 16,046 feet, & with it where the first scenes of snow that got us as excited as little 5 year olds. Although our brain did comprehend the fact that the snow was rather brown in colour, it didn't stop us from totally enjoying the moment. Descending from the pass, we made our way to the Sarchu plains, this time round, staring at the stunningly beautiful mountains, that looked almost red in colour!!!!

The Sarchu Plains are a story in sheer human endurance. If the splitting headaches haven't killed you yet, then Sarchu will ensure you are nearly dead atleast. To begin with, the only accommodation available here are tents, & one doesn't have the luxury of any A class tents. You are lucky if you have a loo attached to your tent, else, if nature beckons at night, then that's another story on endurance. With strong winds blowing, & the tents threatening to blow off, one spends the night hoping & praying that the earth doesn't tear open & eat you up. Sarchu is indeed NOT a trip for the weak hearted.

With the river Yunam, leading the way to the Tsarap valley, one has to cross 2 bridges named Brandy & Whisky, as the road leads to the Nakeela Pass, on the Zanskar Ranges. Reading the names of the 2 bridges, one instantly empathises with the BRO mazdoors, who must've been driven to seek refuge in whisky & brandy, as they bravely fought the weather. You suddenly realise that the roads appear to be looping. These ZigZag roads keeps you awake even if you want to sleep. Called the GATTA loops, all I could keep saying, was ATTA boy, to our driver. One couldn't help but admire the loops after reaching a considerable height. Just as the road seems to reach a plain straight stretch, the climb begins once again, this time towards the LalchungLa Pass, which is about 16,730 feet above sea level. Once you cross the Pass, (which you nearly miss) a beautiful canyon, spreads open in front of you, with such breath-taking natural formations, etched by winds, since time immemorial, on the rocks. From arched gateway like formations, to conical shaped rocks, one cant help but marvel at this natural creation.

Completely lost were we in the beauty of what nature had carved to perfection, that we couldn't talk about anything else as we entered Pang which is 15,640 feet above sea level, and is supposed to be the WORLD'S highest TRANSIT CAMP. One has no choice but to eat here, since there are no other eating places for almost another 80 Km, that is till Upshi. Behind the camp, emerges a brilliant & broad canyon with a river & just as you drive past this, you are faced with a rather empty, plain, bare stretch of incomplete roads called the Morey plains. First timers, tend to feel they are heading no-where, and feel they are driving in circles.

On crossing the Morey Plains, you a surrounded by a range of Hills, which is the last bits of the Zanskar mountains, & welcomed by steely grey, snow tinged mountain, which hails the TanglungLa Pass which is the 2nd Highest motor-able road in the world at 17,552 feet above sea level. The descent is rather dramatic & marked with a sudden eruption of greenery & habitation.

Within a very short time, one is at Rumtse, which is the first permanent settlement of Ladakh on the Manali road, & the 60 Kms from TanglungLa Pass to Leh is covered as one drives through the villages Kartse, Sasoma, Gya & finally Miru before reaching Upshi.

After Upshi, everything quickly became very dry, incredibly bright sun and the only greenery was where the Indus was used to irrigate crops and trees. We were driving down a road with lush fields on one side, and bare earth and rock desert on the other. In the words of a tourist “Even the villages looked almost Mexican”. At Upshi, one crosses the River Indus & drives along a rather bare & barren stretch till Karu, which is a military base. The short distance to Leh from here is marked with many chortans along the way & the hilltops balancing centuries old Gompa's like Shey & Thikse.

Welcome to Leh - an area of 45110 Sq Km making it the largest district in the country in terms of area. It lies between 32 to 36 degree North latitude and 75 degree to 80 degree East longitude. The district is bounded by Pakistan occupied Kashmir in the West and China in the north and eastern part and Lahul Spiti of Himachal Pardesh in South East.