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Issue: Apr-Jun 2007
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Uzbekistan:
Traveling Back to The Times of Timur

Uzbekistan has well preserved relics from the time when Central Asia was a center of empire, education, and trade. Uzbekistan cities including Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva, Shakhrisabz and Tashkent live on in the imagination of the West as symbols of oriental beauty and mystery.

Samarkand
One of the oldest cities of Uzbekistan and in the world is Samarkand, situated in the valley of the river Zarafshan, established during the middle of the first century BC under the name Marakanda and later known as Afrosiab. The numerous monuments of Samarkand and its suburbs impress tourist with their beauty and splendour. The refined architectural shapes, intricate ornamentation, mosaics, blue-tile domes and facades are interesting for all who visit these beautiful buildings. It is the second largest city of Uzbekistan and is of the same age as the city of Babylon or Rome. Poets and historians of the past called it "Rome of the East, The beauty of sublunary countries, the pearl of the Eastern Moslem World". Its advantageous geographical position in Zarafshan valley put Samarkand to the first place among cities of the Central Asia.
During centuries Registan Square was the center of Samarkand. The word Registan means "sand place". There was a river running there many ages ago, before building the first Madrassah on the square. Years passed, the river dried out and left lots of sank there, that was the first place where the first Madrassah was built in the beginning of the 15th century and named Registan square. As the Madrassah was first built, all the holidays, parades, festivals and Sunday bazaars took place.
The ensemble consists of three Madrassahs: Ulugbek Madrassah (15th century), Sher - Dor Madrassah (17th century) and Tilla-Kari Madrassah (gold covered) (17th century).
During centuries Samarkand was gained by different nomadic and half nomadic generations, which always were destroying, sacking, and leaving ruins after them. Samarkand saw the three largest tragedies.
• The first one is related to the time of Aleksandra Macedonian's gains in 329 year BC; the city was fully destroyed, citizens were exterminated. After reconstruction of the city there was a development of different crafts, the east and Greek cultures mixed together, and this left its sign in the history of Samarkand.
• The second tragedy is related to 8th century, when Arabs were gaining the Central Asia. Starting from 8th century Islam became the main religion in Central Asia. Before that time there were different religions in Central Asia but the main was Zoroastrianism. And only Arabs with sword and fire, destroying people brought new religion Islam to Central Asia. And till now it is still main religion here.
• Third tragedy is related to 13th century, when Chenghiz Khan was gaining the central Asia. When the city was destroyed, Samarkand came to the new decline. And only in 14th century when Timur came to the power Samarkand was reconstructed. 14-15th centuries are called the Renaissance because Timur brought scientists from each aggressive crusade. In particular he was assisted in development of different sciences in Central Asia.

Bibi Hanim
Its construction was started in 1399, after successful campaign of Timur to India. Mosque was under construction for five years. Its structure was finished in 1404. By Timur's idea Bibi Hanim mosque had to eclipse all that he had seen before in other countries. Architects, artists, masters and craftsmen from many East countries were involved in construction. Two hundred stonemasons from Azerbaijan, Fars, Hindustan and other countries were working inside the mosque, and five hundred workers in mountains near Pendjikent were working under production and trimming of stones and sending it to Samarkand. Masters and craftsman gathered and drive together from all parts of the world put into construction their traditions and experience.
Shakhi-Zinda
On south-east slope of Afrosiab is situated one of the notable architectural ensemble of Samarkand-Shakhi-Zinda necropolis. It consists of 11 mausoleums, built on to each other during 14-15th centuries in series.
Going up the magnificent stairs of Shakhi-Zinda and entering into the cool twilight of the narrow corridor, a visitor makes a kind of journey into the heart of time. The first mausoleum from the left was thought as mausoleum of Timur's friend and teacher astronomer Kazi-Zade Rumi.
Going up by 36 footsteps of old stairs you find yourself in the open gallery. Here from the left and right are mausoleums burial-vast of closest relatives of Timur and confidant of court.
First mausoleums from the left and right Emir-Zade mausoleum and Emit-Husin mausoleum belong to confidant people of his court.
Next mausoleum from the left belongs to Timur's niece Shadi-Mulk aka. She died when she was very young that is why Timur ordered to build mausoleum of the most elegant form, to show beauty and youth of his niece. Timur's sister Shirin-Bibi aka was managing the construction of this mausoleum. After finishing of this construction, she ordered to build mausoleum for herself against her niece's mausoleum. Both these mausoleums were built in 1371-1373 years.
Next row of mausoleums is called nameless because all these mausoleums were built in 11th century and during Chenghiz Khan's invasion almost all of them were destroyed.

Gur-Emir
Gur-Emir means "grave of Emir". It was built in 1404 for Timur's grandson Muhammed Sultan. He had to become heir apparent of throne after Timur, but in 1404 he died and Timur ordered to build big mausoleum for his beloved grandson. In 1405 Timur died in Otrar city and his sons decided to move his body and bury him near his favorite grandson. From that time this mausoleum was called "burial-vault of timurids". Here two sons of Timur were buried-Shahruh and Miranshah, also second grandson Ulugbek, spiritual director of Timur Muslim sheikh from Medin-Mir Seid Bereke and some Shah-Hodja.
Gur-Emir Mausoleum consists of several parts: yard of Muhammed Sultan ensemble, to the right of mausoleum hanaka (the place where Muslims can pray), to the left is medresse and in the center the mausoleum itself decorated from each side with minarets. Unfortunately neither the medresse nor hanaka were saved. In 1996 it was big reconstruction here when Samarkand celebrated 660 years from Amir Temur's birthday. Original design is saved inside. Decorators only drew on original thin layer of paint.
Every headstone is made from marble, only Timur's headstone is from nephritis, it was brought by order of Ulugbek and put on grave of Timur. All headstones in upper mausoleum are saved very well, but in lower because of floods almost all of them were destroyed. Lattice that set off all headstones was made in 15th century from marble by Ulugbek order.

Afrosiab Museum
Afrosiab-is the name of mythical king Turan and one of the legendary heroes of the epic poem "Shahnama" written by Firdousi. Under this name is known the place where ancient Samarkand was situated.
Now Afrosiab is a huge gathering of lifeless hills sided with modern city from north side. But distant past life was boiling here. Because of this explains steadfast interest of our scientists to Agrosiab.
On the site of ancient settlement were found wonderful example of poured and not poured earthenware ornamental crockery, many terracotta statuettes, fragments of ossuariys, things from glass, different work tools, women decorations, coins, and etc. Archeological findings give clear image about way of life of ancient Samarkand during many centuries of its existence.
It is proved that settling of city type on Afrosiab existed earlier two thousand and half years ago. The city was enclosed with strong defensive walls inside of which where citadel-shahrisatn, cathedral mosque, dwelling houses and craft workshops. The territory of city was crossed by straight paved streets and divided into blocks-guzars.
The museum is built on the territory of Afrosiab. Where gathered archeological findings of 4th century AC till 13th century AC.
Several buildings 6-7th centuries were opened. Their walls are decorated highly artistic wall paintings made with glue colors on loam stucco.

Ulugbek's Observatory
Among historical monuments of Samarkand observatory takes particular place, constructed by Ulugbek in 1428-1429 on one of the hills on height, at the bottom of Chupanat altitude. In the words of Babur, who saw the observatory, it was a three-storied building covered with beautiful glazed titles, in a round form 46 meters in diameter, 30 meters in height. In the main hall a huge instrument was placed for observations of moon, sun, and other stars of the vault of heaven. Observatory was unique construction for its time.
Contribution of creation astronomic catalog-"Zidji-Gurgani", known as "Star tables of Ulugbek" belongs to Ulugbek. Whole galaxy of great scientists was working on them for a long period and finished them to 1437.
"Everything that observation and experience had known about planets movement, is delivered for keeping to this book"-Ulugbek was writing. In this work basics of astronomic observations are summarized, made by eastern scientists.
Exactness of observations of Samarkand astronomers is amazing because they were made without help of optical instruments, with unaided eye. Astronomic tables contents coordinates of 1018 stars. His catalog did not lose its value in our days. With amazing exactness made the calculation of the length of star year, which by Ulugbek's calculation is equal to 365 days 6 hours 10 minutes 8 seconds. Actual length of star year by modern data is 365 days 6 hours 9 minutes, 6 seconds. Thus the mistake is only less that one minute.
After Ulugbek's death observatory was destroyed and robbed by religious fanatics. Only in 1908 archaeologist Vyatkin found first document where location of observatory was mentioned. Unfortunately only underground part of sextant and basis of the building were saved. By the documents found, scientists made the model of the observatory.